Harar

Harar – Ethiopia’s Historic Walled City

Harar, in eastern Ethiopia, is a historic walled city and the fourth holiest city in Islam. It is home to 82 mosques, including three dating back to the 10th century, and 102 shrines. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Harar is also famous for its narrow alleys, colourful markets, and the unique tradition of the Hyena Men, who hand-feed wild hyenas at night.

Culture and History

Harar is the capital of the Harari Region and sits on a hilltop about 530 kilometres from Addis Ababa at an elevation of 1,885 metres. For centuries, it has been an important trading centre, connecting Ethiopia with the Horn of Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and other international trade routes.

Exploring Harar

Walking through Harar feels like stepping back in time. The narrow streets are lined with colourful houses, while local markets are filled with spices, grains, perfumes, khat, and traditional goods. The vibrant clothing worn by local people and the smoke rising from household kitchens create a unique atmosphere, making Harar one of Ethiopia’s most photogenic destinations.

Woman in Harar
Woman walking inn a narrow street in Harar. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Street life in Harar
Colors, light and dust blends into a poetic chaos in Harar in northern Ethiopia. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
A boy sitting in a window
A boy sitting in a window in a street in Harar. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

As for most places in Africa, the hot mid day hours are not the best for taking photos, because not only is the light very harsh, the heat makes most people retract into their houses and the photographer will surely very soon do the same. But in the mornings and afternoons they return to the streets and the light is perfect.

As in anywhere in Africa (and the world!), it is always advisable and courteous to ask for a permission before photographing someone! Yet, sometimes the best images come when you don’t plan too much and just shoot life as it unfolds unforced and natural in front of you. It’s really a fine balance, that one have to decide on how to approach it from time to time. Though if not asking for permission to photograph someone, one should at least expect some confrontational behavior and maybe some angry locals, who might even demand payment for your deed. Yet, when being approached with gentleness and calmness and a willingness to explain the (artistic) purpose of taking pictures, most people seem to accept and confide.

Woman carrying a bunch of empty containers on her head
Woman carrying a bunch of empty containers on her head, in Harar. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Woman carrying a big sack on her head
Woman carrying a big sack on her head, in Harar in northern Ethiopia. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Woman in Harar in northern Ethiopia
Woman in Harar in northern Ethiopia. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Man feeding a wild spotted hyena with a stick in his mouth in Harar
Man feeding a wild spotted hyena with a stick in his mouth in Harar. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Small girl running in Harar
Small girl running in Harar. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski