Kisumu

Boda boda in Kisumu
Boda boda's - or bicycles used to be a common means of simple transportation in the streets of kisumu but nowadays motorized vehichles like motorcycles and 3-wheeler taxis called Tuk Tuk are more common. hoto @ Mikkel Grabowski

History and Lake Transport

Kisumu was originally known as Port Florence during the colonial period. It served as an important stop for passenger and mail services and later became one of Kenya’s busiest lake ports.

Today, the city has a population of around 500,000 people and officially gained city status in 2001 during its centenary celebrations.

For many years, ferry services connected Kisumu with Mwanza in Tanzania and several ports in Uganda. Although many international ferry routes were suspended, passenger and cargo services between Kisumu and Mwanza continue to operate. Growing regional cooperation has also increased interest in developing Kisumu as an important transport and trade hub for East Africa.

Kisumu

Kisumu is the largest city in western Kenya and an important commercial and transport hub. It is located on the shores of Winam Gulf, which forms part of Lake Victoria. The city sits at an elevation of approximately 1,131 metres above sea level.

Lake Victoria covers around 68,000 square kilometres, making it the largest freshwater lake in Africa and one of the largest freshwater lakes in the world. Kisumu serves as an important gateway for visitors exploring western Kenya and the lake region.

Kisumu Airport

Kisumu is served by Kisumu International Airport, which offers regular domestic flights to Nairobi and other destinations. The airport also handles international flights to selected regional destinations, making travel to western Kenya more convenient.

As one of Kenya’s busiest airports, it plays an important role in supporting tourism, trade, and business throughout the region.

Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Adjacent to Lake Victoria

Fisherman in Lake Victoria.
Fisherman in Lake Victoria. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Life Along Lake Victoria

Kisumu’s location on the shores of Lake Victoria gives the city a unique atmosphere. Walking along the waterfront is a great way to experience everyday life and observe local fishing communities, markets, and boats on the lake.

During the afternoon, a cool breeze often blows across the lake, providing welcome relief from the tropical heat. Kisumu is generally warm throughout the year, but the rainy seasons from March to May and October to December can bring sudden weather changes. Heavy rain and strong winds occasionally create storms over the lake.

Local people gather around a fishing boat to buy fish
Local people gather around a fishing boat to buy fish in Dunga - a small fishing village outside Kisumu. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

The Luo Community

Kisumu is the cultural heartland of the Luo community, one of Kenya’s largest ethnic groups. The surrounding region is known for its rich traditions, music, and cultural heritage.

The nearby Siaya County gained international attention because it is the ancestral home of the family of former U.S. President Barack Obama. His father was born in this region, and the village of Kogelo became a popular destination for visitors after Obama’s election. Many travellers visit the area to learn more about its history and cultural significance.

The receptionist in a hotel at night in Kisumu
The receptionist in a hotel at night in Kisumu. Pentax K2 and 28mm f2 "Hollywood Distagon" lens on Kodacolor 200 film. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
A boy with big plastic cans containing water in Kisumu
A boy in Kisumu fetching water from Lake Victoria with big plastic cans on his bike. Pentax K2 and 28mm f2 "Hollywood Distagon" lens on Kodak Portra 160 film. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
A tailor sitting outside by her sewing machine waiting for customers to pass by
A tailor sitting outside by her sewing machine waiting for customers to pass by. Image taken with Pentax K2 and SMC-K 28mm f2 "Hollywood Distagon" lens on Kodak Portra 160 film. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
barbwire surrounding a house in Kisumu
Safety is usually taken very serious in Africa. Here a wall with barbwire surrounding a house in Kisumu. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Kisumu attractions

Impalas by Lake Victoria
Impalas and other animals live in safety behind the fence of Kisumu Impala Sanctuary. In the background is Lake Victoria. Photo @ Mikkel Grabowski

Lakeside Resorts

Another popular destination is Kiboko Bay Resort, a peaceful lakeside retreat with comfortable accommodation and a restaurant overlooking Lake Victoria. It is especially popular on weekends, when many local residents visit to relax and enjoy the sunset.

Across the bay, Kisumu Beach Resort offers beautiful views of the city skyline and the lake. Visitors looking for a unique dining experience can also visit the Kisumu Yacht Club. Day passes are often available, allowing guests to enjoy the restaurant and, on occasion, watch hippos in the nearby waters while dining.

Exploring Kisumu

Kisumu is a pleasant and relaxed city with a slower pace of life than Nairobi. Traffic is generally lighter, making it easy for visitors to explore the city. Over the past few decades, Kisumu has grown rapidly. Areas that were once small farms have been transformed into modern neighbourhoods, shopping centres, and supermarkets offering a wide range of products and services.

Car Wash

One of Kisumu’s most interesting attractions is Car Wash, a lively lakeside area where vehicles, buses, and trucks are cleaned by hand along the shore of Lake Victoria. It is also a popular gathering place for both locals and visitors.

Car Wash is well known for its fresh tilapia, one of the region’s favourite dishes. The fish is often served with ugali, Kenya’s traditional maize meal, as well as rice or chapatis. It is an excellent place to enjoy local cuisine while experiencing the city’s vibrant atmosphere.

Kiboko Bay Lodge in Kisumu
Kiboko Bay Lodge in Kisumu. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Lake Victoria in Kenya is enormous
View over Kisumu Impala Sanctuary and Winam Gulf in Lake Victoria - the biggest lake in Africa and the biggest tropical lake in the world. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Kisumu Impala Sanctuary

Another good place for spotting birds is the Kisumu Impala Sanctuary which is a small patch of forest right behind Sunset Hotel where you (as the name suggests) can see impalas and they also have some cages with a leopard, hyena, baboons and other wildlife. Also of interest is the Kisumu Museum which features a display of local traditional customs and crafts. Outside there is a traditional Luo homestead consisting of the husband’s mud and thatch home and separate houses for each wife.

Kibuye market

Kisumu is probably the best place to buy Kisii soapstone carvings and the Kibuye market, one of the largest and most animated in Kenya, provides a fascinating glimpse into the day to day existence of the peoples of Western Kenya. There are numerous small villages around Lake Victoria of interest to the traveller. Dunga Beach, a small fishing village that you will pass by on your way to Kiboko Bay Resort, is a wonderful place to experience the traditional lifestyle of the fishermen.

Boat trips on Lake Victoria

Setting out in a boat early in the morning is a great way to experience Lake Victoria and contrary to many other places in Kenya there are no park fees. The bird list exceeds 100 species and also there are monitor lizards and sometimes Giant Otters along the lakeshore so remember to bring your camera and a pair of binoculars.

At Kiboko Bay Resort as well as Kisumu Beach Resort you can hire motorized boats and they also arrange some exellent fishing trips on the lake or even trips to visit Ndere Island National Park. Another (and depending on negotiating skills, sometimes cheaper option) is to book boat trips through local villagers/fishermen in Kisumu, Hippo Point, Dunga or other places along the shores though one should be aware that they often use smaller boats.

Kisumu in Kenya
There are numerous Hippos in Lake Victoria - here in the vicinity of Kisumu town. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Birds at Lake Victoria
There is a huge variety of birds at Lake Victoria. Here a silver heron, a yellow billed stork, some African open billed storks, a pelican and some cormorants share a small mudbank in the lake. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

In the morning the lake is usually very calm, but in the afternoons where the wind picks up, sailing on the lake is not without risk and fishermen drown every year because of lack of safety precautions on the lake! If you venture out onto the lake, always ensure that the boatman brings along safety vests for everyone onboard! Also it is a very good idea to bring some sunscreen and a hat because in a boat you will be relentlessly exposed to the sun (and its reflections in the surface) and there will be nowhere to find shade until you reach the shore again.

Birding at Lake Victoria

Actually Lake Victoria is somewhat of a bird-watchers delight and about 8km from Kisumu city you will find Kisumu Heronry. Also there are many fascinating and idyllic islands in the lake such as Ndere Island, Rusinga Island, Mfangano Island and Takawire Island and on the Ugandan side tourism have picked up on the jungle clad Sese islands. Also Kisumu is the main hub for visiting other places in Western kenya such as Kakamega Forest, Mount Elgon, Saiwa Swamp, Kit Mikaye, Siaya, Kericho, Kisii and Uganda.

Local fishing boats with sails on Lake Victoria nearby Kisumu. Image taken with Pentax K2 and SMC-F 300mm f/4.5 on FP4 film. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
A local fishing boat setting sail on Lake Victoria
A local fishing boat setting sail on Lake Victoria off Dunga, Kisumu. Image taken with Pentax K2 and SMC-F 300mm f/4.5 on FP4 film. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Fishermen in their boat on Lake Victoria at Dunga.
Fishermen in their boat on Lake Victoria at Dunga. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Sunset and flying ibises over Lake Victoria
Sunset and flying ibises over Lake Victoria seen from Kisumu. Image taken with Pentax K2 and SMC-F 300mm f/4.5 + 1.7x teleconverter on Kodak Portra 160 film. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski