Lake Victoria

Lake Victoria in Kenya is enormous
View over Kisumu Impala Sanctuary and Winam Gulf in Lake Victoria - the biggest lake in Africa and the biggest tropical lake in the world. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
People waiting for the ferry at Lake Victoria in Entebbe
People waiting for the ferry in Entebbe by Lake Victoria. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Lake Victoria

Lake Victoria covers an area of approximately 68,000 square kilometres, making it Africa’s largest lake and the world’s largest tropical lake. Its surface area is roughly equal to that of Ireland. The lake is shared by Kenya, Uganda, and Tanzania, although Kenya has the smallest shoreline.

Lake Victoria is also considered the world’s second-largest freshwater lake by surface area when Lake Michigan and Lake Huron are counted as separate lakes. It plays a vital role in the region by supporting local communities, fisheries, transportation, and tourism.

History of Lake Victoria

In 1858, the British explorer John Hanning Speke became the first European to reach Lake Victoria. He believed the lake was the source of the White Nile. At first, many people questioned his claim. However, in 1875, Henry Morton Stanley confirmed that Speke’s discovery was correct.

Geography and Depth

Unlike many famous East African lakes, Lake Victoria is not part of the Great Rift Valley. It is separate from the chain of Rift Valley lakes, which includes Lake Naivasha, Lake Nakuru, Lake Elementeita, Lake Tanganyika, and Lake Malawi.

Although Lake Victoria is vast, it is relatively shallow. The average depth is around 30 to 40 metres, while the deepest point reaches approximately 81 metres. Kenya’s share of the lake covers about 3,785 square kilometres, with the remaining area belonging to Uganda and Tanzania.

The ecology of lake Victoria

Lake Victoria has one of Africa’s most important freshwater ecosystems. However, the lake has faced several environmental challenges over the years. Falling water levels and changes to the ecosystem have affected many native species.

In the 1960s, the Nile perch was introduced into the lake. This large predator dramatically changed the ecosystem and caused the decline of many native fish species. Before its introduction, Lake Victoria was home to more than 500 fish species, with around 90% belonging to the Haplochromis cichlid group. The lake was once recognised for its exceptional biodiversity.

Fishing Industry and Environmental Challenges

Today, tilapia remains an important source of food and protein for local communities. At the same time, Nile perch has become the foundation of a major commercial fishing industry, generating significant export revenue for countries surrounding the lake.

The environmental impact of this fishing industry is explored in the award-winning documentary Darwin’s Nightmare, directed by Hubert Sauper.

Another challenge is the spread of water hyacinth, an invasive plant that can cover large areas of the lake. Dense mats of vegetation reduce oxygen levels and make fishing and boat travel more difficult.

Lake Flies, Hippos and Crocodiles

Lake Victoria is also known for its enormous swarms of lake flies. These insects occasionally gather in huge numbers and can be a nuisance because of their sheer volume. However, they are harmless to people and do not bite like mosquitoes.

Hammerkop at sunrise by Lake Victoria
A Hammerkop flies over Lake Victoria in the early morning just after sunrise. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski
Kisumu in Kenya
There are numerous Hippos in Lake Victoria - here in the vicinity of Kisumu town. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Hippos are part of everyday life along the shores of many African lakes and their occassional deep series of grunts makes you realize how massive they are and they give a feel of some ancient connection to a nature that reaches long before man. Hippos are territorial animals and they always seek to the water to feel safe, but at night they venture onto land to graze and they can be very dangerous when feeling cut off from their beloved water.

There are Nile crocodiles in all sizes living in Lake Victoria as well as Monitor Lizards and spotted-necked otters and the cry from the magnificent African fish eagle can be heard along the shores. The bird list exceeds 100 species and also there are monitor lizards and sometimes Giant Otters along the lakeshore so remember to bring your camera and a pair of binoculars.

Islands in Lake Victoria

In the Kenyan part of the lake you will find Islands such as Rusinga, Mfangano, Takawiri, Ndere and the lake has a large number of smaller islands – maybe the Sese Islands being the most visited.

Takawiri island has been developed a bit towards accomodating tourists. A white sandy beach under swaying coconut palms give an impression from a tropical coral island in the sea.

Ukerewe in the Tanzanian part of the lake is the largest island in Lake Victoria and the largest inland island in all of Africa, with an area of approximately 530 km².

Another interesting island in the southern part of the lake is Rubondo Island. Rubondo Island has gained status of National Park and there are giraffes, elephants, chimpanzees as well as a wealth of other animals and birds to be seen.

Takawiri island
Diani beach or Pemba island in the Indian Ocean? No - a tropical island called Takawiri located in Lake Victorias 68,000 km2 expanse of water. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Boat trips on Lake Victoria

Lake Victoria in Kenya
Fishing boats on Lake Victoria in Kenya. Photo © Mikkel Grabowski

Setting out in a canoe early in the morning is a great way to experience Lake Victoria and contrary to many other places in Kenya there are no park fees. Boats can be hired pretty much anywhere around the lake from local fishermen, but you should be warned that safety is often neglected as they usually don’t have any life wests on board.

In the morning the lake is usually very calm, but in the afternoons where the wind picks up, sailing on the lake is not without risk and fishermen drown every year because of lack of safety precautions on the lake! If you venture out onto the lake, always ensure that the boatman brings along safety vests for everyone onboard! Also it is a very good idea to bring some sunscreen and a hat because in a boat you will be relentlessly exposed to the sun (and its reflections in the surface) and there will be nowhere to find shade until you reach the shore again.